Things to Do in Majuro in May

May's light trade winds mean the 30 km (18.6 miles) crossing to Arno takes 90 minutes of gentle rocking instead of the usual two-hour punch-through. The lagoon inside the atoll is so shallow you can stand in chest-deep water 2 km (1.2 miles) from shore, staring down at brain coral the size of compact cars. You'll likely have the sand-spit picnic island to yourself - cruise ships don't start calling until June.

The northern tip of Majuro (40 km / 25 miles from the airport) hides coastal defense guns and a submerged Sherman tank 50 m (164 ft) off shore. May's minus tides happen around midday, so you can wade out and touch the tank turret without a snorkel. The coral path is sharp - wear booties, not flip-flops.

Yellow-fin tuna run close to the drop-off in May. Local captains troll along the 1,000 m (3,280 ft) cliff 8 km (5 miles) west of the pass. You'll hand-line with 200 lb mono while flying fish skip across the bow spray - the boat's radio crackles in Marshallese when someone hooks up.

May coincides with the annual textile fair, so campus weavers open impromptu classes. You'll sit cross-legged on pandanus mats, stripping leaves until your thumbs go green, then learn the two-over-one-under pattern used for traditional chief belts. The room smells faintly of sea salt and coconut husk smoke used to cure the fibers.

After sunset the temperature drops to 173°F (78°C) and locals migrate to the park's concrete pavilion. Under one bare bulb, teenage boys braid coconut fronds into fish baskets while elders pound kava root. The drink tastes like muddy pepper water. But two shells in and the lagoon breeze feels cooler than it is.