Things to Do in Majuro in December

December's steady northeast trade winds are what local sailors live for. The lagoon transforms into a vast, protected playground. Skimming across that deep blue water, spray hitting your skin, the long, narrow atoll stretching on either side, this defines a Majuro winter. Visibility might not be good for looking down. The thrill is all in the movement across the surface.

The drive to Laura, at the far western tip of the atoll, journeys into a different Majuro. Greener. Quieter. December's rains make everything intensely lush. The smell of wet earth and blooming flowers mixes with woodsmoke from small homesteads. The payoff is a sweeping view from the island's end. Hear the full roar of the open Pacific on one side. The lagoon's gentle lap on the other. The road itself, with its puddles and cheeky chickens, is half the adventure.

Overcast December days suit the subdued, reflective atmosphere of Majuro's historical sites. At Ajeltake, the quiet compound where the first American Protestant missionaries landed, the air carries thick scent of frangipani and salt. Stillness here is broken only by distant roosters. You feel the weight of the past. This is tactile history. Touch the coral stone church walls. Feel the cool shade under ancient trees.

Food in Majuro centers on freshness. December's catch is hearty. The morning market in Rita hums with machetes cracking open coconuts. The briny smell of just-landed tuna and parrotfish fills the air. The real magic happens at roadside stalls by late afternoon. Sizzle of reef fish grilling over coconut husks. Smoky, sweet barbeque chicken. Sticky, satisfying chew of freshly pounded pandanus fruit. Eating here is communal. It is hands-on.

The art of the outrigger canoe lives on here. On days when the lagoon is not too choppy, watch fishermen in their hand-carved korkor. They move with a rhythm unchanged in centuries. The paddle dipping into the water makes a quiet, precise slap. Visit a local canoe house. Feel the smooth, oiled wood of the hulls. Smell the unique scent of cured breadfruit sap used as caulk. This is a living museum piece.